Rally Elan

This trip had its origins back in 2018 when we signed up to take the Elan from Chengdu to Lhasa in May 2020. Covid intervened and the rally company folded so the outlook was bleak until Adrian proposed a similar trip in hired 4WDs and a much smaller group. Initially there were 4 cars but one couple dropped out, then Allison became unwell so eventually just 5 people did the trip with Adrian and his Landlady.

There were more arrangements and organisation from us than usual – see Technicalities (below)

Our first day was to visit pandas and then some old (tourist) streets. It was 38° and the black/white pandas were all snoozing in huts whilst the reds were sprawled out in the trees – so with all the crowds not much to see. In the afternoon we met our “Tanks” and were given supplies of water and an oxygen compressor – our route goes well over 5,000 metres.

Our first day on the road was to Leibo and my first navigation error at a motorway intersection as I was following the wrong mapping app (see Technicalities). Lunch brought its own problems as we could not read the restaurant signs – so they gave us photos of the shop front in future but messed that up on day 2 by sending us to one location with a photo of another restaurant in the same town with the same name! After the motorway we were on ordinary roads with plenty of aggressive overtaking on roads cluttered with cars, lorries and bends. See the map, we started in Chengdu (top right) far west and south to Everest before returning east to Lhasa

In the first few days there were relatively few sights to see and driving occupied our full attention. This was more so on day two when the plan to visit a “cliff village” were cancelled after a tourist fell off a ladder the day before and died. We stopped at Meigu Canyon before arriving at Xichang. I took an early morning walk along the lake across the road from the hotel and was surprised to find CCTV cameras on the footpaths and lane markings showing which side of the path you should walk on! Leaving Xichang we drove past a farm of greenhouses – but this was the route! Adrian loves deviations off his route and one such took us 30 odd km through lush hillsides away from the heavy traffic of the main roads
And on to Lugu Lake where we had the first rescheduling of the rally. Our planned hotel was deemed unsuitable so after hasty phone calls we went to another some miles away, arriving after dark – brand new and almost empty but somehow they conjured up beer and food.
The meals were fairly consistent in that our guide ordered for us, gradually realising that we didn’t like it too spicy. I guess it was all air fried with loud extractor fans and plenty of oil which I invariably split on my trousers as we sat on low chairs and were using chopsticks. Pork and mushroom was a favourite along with stringy greens (always stuck in my teeth), broccoli and various beef and chicken dishes, accompanied by rice; relatively few noodles. Breakfasts in the larger more western hotels were standard buffets but became more challenging in the smaller Chinese hotels where everything was a random selection – steamed buns (aka dumplings) were safe and almost edible. Melons, dragon fruit and mangos were usually available.
From Lugu our route included a side trip to Baoshan Stone village (lunch stop) to the ancient city of Lijiang, our furthest point south. A sign in Baoshan showed Tea Horse Road; long ago, Lijiang was a major centre of commerce and a start point for the trade taking tea to Tibet so this road was part of the old trade network. We had a rest day in Lijiang and the highlight of the day was a tea ceremony when we had a lengthy lecture on teas. This was followed by lunch and a trip to a monastery.
Our next stop was Shangri-La and the route was via Tiger Leaping Gorge – unsurprisingly where Tigers are said to have leapt across the gorge. At the Shangri-la hotel, Adrian complained about his brakes – so a pad change in the car park, later on we wandered to the centre, all lit up and people dancing
From Shangri-la we headed back north towards Yading, where a rest day was planned but that all changed as did our next couple of hotel stops. Our first stop was Songzanlin Monastery, from 1679, often known as Little Potala (after the Potala in Lhasa), this is an important place of study for Tibetan culture and religious history. Leaving the monastery there was a long drive through rugged terrain to our hotel near the Yading National Park. Leaving Yading we passed the pretty Langjiling Temple. We then climbed along a “scenic” road with hairpins, taking a detour off the planned route to a small monastery (name sadly unknown). We continued towards Litang on side roads with occasional glimpses of villages and monasteries
Litang had a different feel from other places we’d been to. There were police posts on junctions and groups of men standing around on the opposite corner. Off the main street was an attractive cluster of older buildings, one the birthplace of the seventh Dalai Lama, and a couple of ladies in traditional dress Our hotel seemed to be a traditional local building with sturdy timbers and elaborate doors
From Litang we continued in an at times bleak landscape, via another monastery whose name I’ve lost – it was on a detour off the planned route – to the Eye of Genie holy Mountain By explanation, Genie is the name of the holy mountain and its eye is the lake with the growth in the middle. It was planned that we should visit the local “yurt base” which I think was an outdoor shopping area – it was deserted so an easy choice to ignore it! Christina was travelling with me today and we were the only car to attempt the high altitude pass from the yurts towards Batang. It was a most unlikely track leading past the high pasture and nearly impassable – I did re-arrange the tank’s running boards in the transit but our insurance had no excess except for total loss! .
Leaving Batang, another deviation was suggested, running parallel to the busy main road but the other side of a river, along an empty gravel road. I was the lead car and came across this landslide . I turned back to be met by Phil & Kieron who suggested that two cars might manage it so we turned round and agreed it wouldn’t work so turned again to be met by Adrian who suggested that three cars…..When that effort failed we all returned to the main route! We continued to Palyu Monastery . After lunch in Baiyu we came across an enormous prayer wheel . Dege (otherwise Derge or Gengquing Town) was a landmark stop, the hotel was unexciting but it was our last stop before crossing the river and into Tibet. It was once the capital of the Derge Kingdom but the royal palace was demolished in the 1950’s; it still has the Derge Parkhang – Scripture Printing monastery which we will visit tomorrow. This uses wooden blocks to print the chant sheets used by monks all across China and Tibet. We found that cameras were not allowed inside – but mobile phones were ok – one takes pictures and the other, err… takes pictures!
One monk steadies the block and inks it whilst the other loads the paper and does the rolling. Founded in 1729, the Parkhang contains the greatest number of Tibetan woodblocks. . Leaving the monastery we headed for the checkpoint and the bridge into Tibet. We all had to pass together along with both the China guide and our new Tibet guide. The China guide’s work was now done and his car was taken over by the Tibet guide. On the far bank we saw the signpost to the “first village liberated by the Chinese army in 1959” following the uprising in March. This spelt the end of any Tibetan independence and the Dalai Lama fled to eventual exile in India.

This was now day 2 in Tibet and we were off to the spectacular Zizhu Monastery, approached by a steep dusty road, in a queue of vehicles, having to drop back frequently as visibility was so poor – but the monastery was worth it! . Our guide had impressed upon us that we should not speak to anyone outside our group but a number of people were keen to chat to these strangers and it would seem that no harm was done. For reasons now obscure, Adrian decided not to join the visit but instead to do some off road driving. At evening meal in Dingqing we told him what he’d missed so early next day he retraced the route to see for himself. So when I got to the first checkpoint of the day, I was stopped and asked to wait. When our guide arrived it transpired that we were in the dog house! Adrian had not followed the route and not cleared his plans with the guide – though he had been with us at our evening meal….. So we were now on a final warning! For the rest of the day we had to travel in convoy, our lunch stop was supervised by police and we were told that all routes must be approved by the guide and any further misdemeanours and we would be sent back to Chengdu. Normal service resumed next day though Adrian was careful to confirm the main route and possible deviations with our guide. We we were now above 4000 metres driving through grasslands with periodic police checkpoints and speed cameras. One of our party had a crump with a brand new cement lorry so that caused a delay; we waited at the roadside whilst our guide negotiated the cost. 3 cars took a deviation to around 5200 metres, the cars were struggling even if we weren’t though later on the oldest and youngest in the group did succumb to a degree of altitude sickness – fortunately mild but they did need the oxygen supply we’d been given. Then we got to Shigatse where we had a rest day; we would come back to Shigatse after our trip to Everest base camp. En route to Tashi Lhunpo Monastery, in a nearby car park we found what initially seemed to be a Range Rover – but maybe it was a fake! Our guide attempted to explain some of the details to us but I’m not sure we were very good students. One monk had a harder time with his audience; the monk to the right is giving a talk to the assembled monks and a panel of examiners in the covered courtyard with all the tourists wandering past. Every now and then he would clap his hands to emphasise a point and seemed to be partly giving his talk and partly debating with the examining panel – we were not invited to understand any of it! After lunch we tried to visit the Zhong but there was no entry. Our China guide had told us that during Covid, some areas were sealed and no-one allowed to leave their apartment blocks; we wondered if the metal gates in the area below the Zhong were from the same time. Next day was one of the two summits of the journey – our visit to Everest Base Camp – and it was an anti-climax! This was one of those days when we had to pass together at certain check points but we all arrived at the hotel in Tashizong, just below the camp in time for the 4pm bus to Base camp. At the checkpoint we all had to get out, filter past guards who inspected us and our passports, get back on the bus and continue. When we got there it was a sanitized tourist destination. No climbers or tents or mountaineering supply shops, just neatly laid out guest rooms, a post office, restaurant, artificial grass, board walks, tourists with oxygen cylinder back packs and strict instructions that we had to be well behaved, could not pass a certain point and could not show any flags except the Chinese – and Everest was shrouded in cloud! We had beer and supper in the restaurant and caught the late bus back to our hotel Leaving Tashizong we took the less busy route via Sakya to Shigatse – and this is where the real drama unfolded! After lunch we visited the Sakya Monastery, occupied by another sect of Bhuddism, more austere and drab. Leaving the monastery, I got lost and found myself heading towards the marked track but going through a checkpoint which was not in the routebook. Then I realised I was heading towards the outbound track from yesterday and not today’s return track! I went back through the checkpoint where I had to show my passport whilst I was on the radio to the group checking where I was. I dropped my passport on my knees – and that was the last time I saw it. Some hours later I realised it was no more but by that time, I’d taken a number of photos, driven along a lake (approved route but a later check of the signboard as we approached said it was a no entry area!) and had a puncture (in the rain). It was after the puncture when I thought – “where’s my passport?”. I retraced some of the route but no sign and it was dark by the time I reached Shigatse. I checked the car, Phil and Kieron checked the car and in the morning both Adrian and our guide checked – nothing, so it was off to the Police to report it missing. Our China guide assured me that this document would get me out of the country but I would need a passport – and they had to be applied for online and picked up from British Embassy, Beijing – 4 hours flight away. Arriving in Lhasa, there was a first when we weren’t allowed to buy fuel until we’d produced the car registration documents – this took some while to appreciate as translation was a bit erratic! This was my final night on the tour as I had to fly to Beijing after our tour of the Potala Palace so an early afternoon flight saw me arrive in Beijing in time for supper and bed. There were lengthy queues to get into Potala as well as document requirements but our guide was on hand to help. The Potala was once the residence of the Dalai Lama as well as a monastery and admin centre. Before going in we saw a pilgrim prostrating himself on the pavement; we had seen them in previous days, throwing themselves onto the ground – and wearing substantial protective pads.
Arriving at the British Embassy, the passport was ready but I was told I had now to get a visa in the temporary passport (cost £100 and valid for one journey only). At the visa centre I was asked why I wanted to leave and told there was a 7 day processing time and a 7 day National holiday starting in a couple of days – say 3 weeks all told. This wasn’t looking good so I figured I would go back to Chengdu where I had arrived – they would have full details of my visa, plus I had a booked flight plus maybe they’d not be so strict and perhaps our guide was right that the police report was my “get out” card. In Chengdu I arrived in good time and got all the way to the departure Lounge, having gone through Immigration with no fuss and was relaxing with a cup of tea, thinking that this would work……when an airline official arrived and said Immigration would like a word with me. I answered a few questions and went back to my tea when I was again approached and taken right back to the airport entry hall. I was told that “our leaders have said that you must have a visa in your passport” and also that the man’s boss was very angry that I had taken up so much time. I was given the address of the nearest visa centre (not Chengdu) – but when the taxi got there – closed! Try again tomorrow. The driver found me a very nice hotel with marble pillars and reasonably cheap (definitely not on the tourist trail!). Next day I turned up and was told it was the wrong office and to go 1 km down the road. This was the right office but communication was difficult so I phoned the China guide who had what seemed to be a very animated conversation and the upshot was….they could not issue visas and I must go back to Chengdu! Back in Chengdu I was told the same 7 days story but really didn’t fancy an extra 3 weeks in China. Not only would I be completely on my own but Allison was already worked up about my predicament. Only one card left to play. I told the lady I was an old man (true) and all my group/friends had already left for home so I was all alone (true). Ok come back 4pm tomorrow!! But first she wanted to see my flight booking to ensure I was actually going to leave. Of course my flight had been and hone and no refund possible but booking.com did the necessary so that was all ok then? Not exactly. I see you’ve in Tibet may I see your Tibet travel permit. I didn’t have that so I texted the Tibet guide to send me a copy – which he did….on WhatsApp. What is banned in China? Yes WhatsApp! Fortunately the lady passed on that so an exit was possible. After a few more misunderstandings I finally got home only 3 days late. Moral-don’t ose your passport and whatever you do, don’t lose it in China and most certainly not in Tibet!

To Be Continued
Technicalities
The trip required preparation – from our end: Chinese visas, altitude insurance (our standard policy stopped at 4500 metres) but we would be going 1,000 metres higher, the balance between warm and cold weather clothing (Everest base camp could be cold but Chengdu was 38°/40°), arranging an E-Sim and a VPN (virtual private network), flights, London – Chengdu return and a single flight from Lhasa to Chengdu, plus the usual airport transfers, car parking, dogs into kennels, cash and credit cards – the list went on and was longer than usual and the arrangements continuously changed. For example we were told that anyone over a “certain age” had to take a Chinese driving test which would occupy our first day in Chengdu so there wouldn’t be time to see the pandas – and who would go to Chengdu and not go to see the pandas? So we booked an early return from Lhasa to Chengdu to see pandas but then our driving licences were arranged so we cancelled the early flight to have longer in Lhasa.
Then Allison was too ill to travel so I went alone, cancelling her flights, then the airport taxi didn’t arrive – “sorry we forgot” – so a rush to arrange 3 weeks airport parking and an unexpected drive to Heathrow.
Adrian had arranged Chinese Sim cards for us and helped set up the VPN so we could use WhatsApp for easy communication – but its banned in China so the VPN hides your location. We were told we had to use a Chinese phone app called WeChat (similar to WhatsApp) which had a payment feature as credit cards were not commonly used, the majority of payments being by phone. Being old fashioned I wanted some cash – the hotel didn’t have any and the local ATM promptly swallowed my card! I thought about going to the bank the next day but as the card was in Allison’s name, I decided that would require a lot of explanation so bye, bye card! Then my phone died as I exceeded my data allowance when the wifi failed whilst I was calling back to UK. That meant I couldn’t load my credit card onto the WeChat app because I couldn’t access the bank’s pass code – which was sent to my UK phone number……. Fortunately, Allison was able to pay off the mobile bill, Alastair had a spare phone (as mine couldn’t take 2 physical Sim cards) and a few days later I was back in operation. Too many dominoes!
Navigation is much easier when there’s a driver and a navigator in the car as I found out when I messed up a motorway intersection and was 20 minutes late for lunch. We had been given 3 mapping options:
• Guru maps which showed the track to follow but not speeds or instructions at junctions but it did show the “deviations” which Adrian liked to follow,
• AMaps, like a Chinese version of TomTom but in Chinese. This did show big white arrows at intersections and speeds but not the deviations
• WeMaps which the guides used but served only to confuse everyone else!
Speeding was a concern to us as China has overhead camera gantries all over the place, in towns and on country roads – and twice as many in Tibet as in China. Most flashed at you because you were there irrespective of speed, some were actual speed cameras and others were Average speed – but we weren’t told that till much later and how AMaps could tell us. However Adrian and our China guide were initially relaxed about speeding – foreigners could not collect penalty points so at the end we would be invoiced for the financial penalties and charged the cost of getting people to accept the points – there is a thriving black market in getting others to take your points in China. This relaxed attitude changed abruptly when the first penalty notices started arriving – one at over twice the limit. “Please slow down” a tearful China guide asked us! In the event, I had no penalties, one had £10 and one was about £750. Maybe the cameras were broken!